Pattern Grading Services

Pattern Grading: The most common technique used for grading clothes sizes is pattern grading. This process involves taking a base pattern, which is typically a size medium, and creating additional sizes by increasing or decreasing the dimensions of the pattern pieces. Pattern graders use specialized software and tools to ensure that the proportions of the garment are consistent across all sizes.

Nested Grading: Another popular technique is nested grading. This method involves arranging pattern pieces of different sizes on top of each other, like nesting dolls, and cutting them all at once. This technique is efficient and can save time and materials, but requires precision to ensure that each size is accurately cut.

Proportionate Grading: Proportionate grading is a technique used for garments that require specific proportions to maintain their shape and style. For example, a fitted dress may need to be graded in a way that maintains the same ratio of waist to bust to hip measurements across all sizes. This technique requires a deep understanding of garment construction and design principles.

Grade Rules: Grade rules are guidelines that garment graders use to ensure consistency across all sizes. These rules dictate how much each pattern piece should be increased or decreased in size for each size increment. The designer or manufacturer typically establishes grade rules and may vary depending on the type of garment.

Fit Testing: Fit testing involves creating a sample garment in each size and testing it on a model or fit model to ensure that it fits properly and looks flattering. This technique is commonly used in conjunction with other grading techniques to ensure that the final product meets the designer’s vision and fits the target market.

Factors Affecting Grading: When it comes to grading clothing patterns in London, there are several factors that can significantly affect the final outcome. Here are the top three factors that garment graders need to consider:

Pattern Grading Technique: Pattern grading is the process of increasing or decreasing the size of a clothing pattern while maintaining the same design proportions. There are different techniques for pattern grading, such as cut-and-spread, add-and-subtract, and computerized grading. Each technique has its strengths and weaknesses, and garment graders must choose the one that suits the garment’s design and fabric type. The grading technique can influence the final fit and comfort of the garment, as well as the cost and time of production.

Experience of Graders: Garment graders in London need to have a deep understanding of clothing sizing and body measurements to create accurate patterns that fit well. Experienced graders have developed an eye for detail and can spot potential fit issues before they occur. They also know how to grade different types of garments, such as knitwear, denim, or formalwear. An inexperienced grader can make mistakes that can result in a poor fit, leading to customer dissatisfaction and returns.

Fabric Characteristics: The choice of fabric can affect the grading process and the final fit of the garment. Different fabrics behave differently when stretched or pulled, which can affect the grading measurements. For example, a stretchy fabric like spandex requires a different grading technique than a woven fabric like cotton. Garment graders need to consider the fabric’s drape, weight, and elasticity when grading the pattern. They also need to take into account any fabric shrinkage that may occur after washing or dry cleaning.